I lived in Reykjavík for a year in 2011, doing fieldwork for my PhD. The best thing about living there—better than the Northern Lights, better than the glaciers and volcanoes, better even than the fact that nobody locks their doors—was the public pools. They’re geothermally heated and open all winter, with ice coating the decks and steam rising off the water like the River Styx with lap lanes. The smell of sulphur rises with the steam. It seeps up from where the Mid-Atlantic Ridge is slowly splitting the island in two.The Icelanders don’t put any chemicals in their pools. So…

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